credit: Hepper

Betta fish, with their dazzling beauty, are remarkably resilient creatures. However, like any living being, they can fall ill. One potential illness to be aware of is velvet, a parasite that can pose a significant threat to your betta. But fear not! With the right plan, you can effectively treat velvet and help your betta regain their vibrant health.

What is Velvet?

Velvet isn’t a fabric mishap on your betta. It’s a nasty parasite clinging to your fish’s skin and fins. Here’s how to spot it:

• Golden Dust:  Look closely. Does your betta’s color seem off? Velvet can make them look like they’re covered in fine, gold or rust-colored dust.
• Scratching: Parasites are itchy! Your betta might rub against things in the tank like they’re trying to scratch an itch they can’t reach.
• Strange Swimming: Velvet can make your betta uncomfortable, causing them to swim erratically or clamp their fins close to their body.
• Loss of Appetite: When a fish doesn’t feel well, they often don’t want to eat.

credit: Betta fish forum

Treating Velvet

Click for my favorite betta fish guidebook on treating illness

Velvet is a serious condition, so it’s crucial to start treatment immediately upon spotting the signs. By doing so, you’re taking a proactive and responsible approach to your betta’s health. Here’s what you need to do:

• Isolate: Velvet is highly contagious. If you have other fish in the tank, immediately move your betta to a separate “hospital tank” for treatment.
• Dim the Lights: These parasites don’t like bright light. Dimming your betta’s tank or covering it with a towel can help disrupt their life cycle.
• Raise the Temperature (Carefully): Raising your tank water temperature to around 82°F speeds up the life cycle of the parasites, making treatment more effective. Caution: Do this slowly over a day or two; sudden temperature changes stress bettas.

Treat with Medications: Several medications can combat velvet. Here are some commonly used options:

• Malachite Green: This is a traditional anti-parasite treatment. Follow the dosage directions carefully.
• Copper Sulfate is another effective option, but be very precise with the dosage as it can be toxic to fish.
• Aquarium Salt: Not a cure-all, but it can assist medication in fighting the parasites.

Important Notes:

• Always follow medication instructions to the letter. Overdosing can harm your fish.
• Remove carbon filters during treatment. Carbon filtration can take the medication out of the water.
• Don’t stop treatment too early! Even if your fish looks better, continue the medication as directed to ensure the parasites are completely gone.

Prevention for Velvet-Free Betta Bliss

While treating velvet is possible, it’s stressful for you and your fish. A healthy, parasite-free tank is everyone’s goal! Here are the most effective ways to keep velvet out of your betta’s beautiful home:

• Quarantine is Queen: This is the golden rule. A separate quarantine tank is absolutely essential. Keep new fish, plants, or decorations in this tank for at least two weeks. Before introducing these items to the main tank, observe the bettas closely for any signs of illness.
• The Salt Assist: Aquarium salt isn’t a magic velvet solution but a gentle defense booster. Add a small amount (follow product directions) to your betta’s tank during routine water changes. Salt helps your fish produce a healthy slime coat, making it harder for parasites to attach, and boosts their overall health.
• Stress-Free Zone:  Stress weakens a fish’s immune system. Ensure your betta’s tank is the right size, has proper filtration, and offers plenty of hiding places. Avoid overcrowding, aggressive tankmates, and sudden changes to water temperature or light exposure.
• Food for Thought: A high-quality, balanced diet keeps your betta strong. Avoid overfeeding, which can degrade water quality and invite trouble.
• Pre-Loved Items? Proceed with Caution: Used tanks, equipment, or decorations might harbor unseen parasites. If possible, purchase new items. If you must use pre-loved supplies, thoroughly disinfect them with a bleach solution (carefully rinsed away afterward) or quarantine them separately for several weeks.
• Responsible Sourcing: Purchase fish from reputable stores or breeders with a good track record. Healthy fish are less likely to carry parasites. Visually inspect fish before bringing them home, and always quarantine new arrivals.

A Note on Plants: Live plants bring benefits but can also be a source of hidden parasites. Consider these options:

• Quarantine: Keep new plants in a separate tank for a few weeks.
• Tissue Culture Plants: These plants, grown in a sterile laboratory environment, are less likely to carry parasites.
• Plant Dips: Specialized dips are available to help disinfect plants before placing them in a tank. Research proper usage and be cautious; some solutions can harm certain plant types.

It’s Worth the Effort

While preventing velvet may require a little extra effort, it’s the kindest way to ensure your betta thrives. By following these guidelines, you’re creating an environment where your betta can shimmer and shine worry-free. This assurance should instill a sense of confidence and security in your betta’s health.

Betta fish are not just a beautiful addition to any aquarium, but also living creatures that can sometimes fall ill. One of the most common culprits of their illness is ich.

What is Ich?

Ich is also known as white spot disease, which is a pesky parasite that attacks freshwater fish. The ich parasite has a complex life cycle, but the most noticeable stage is when it forms visible white cysts on the fish’s body, fins, and gills. These white dots resemble salt sprinkled across your betta.

Credit: Pinterest

Warning Signs: Symptoms of Ich

Besides the telltale white spots, be on the lookout for these signs of ich:

• Rubbing or “flashing”: Your betta may try to scratch the itch by rubbing against tank decorations or the substrate.
• Loss of appetite: A sick betta might not be interested in food.
• Lethargy: They may seem less active and hide more often.
• Clamped fins: Your betta might hold its fins close to its body.

How To Treat Ich On Bettas

Don’t panic if you spot these symptoms! Ich is indeed a treatable condition, but it’s vital to act quickly. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

• Raise the Temperature: Gradually increase the tank temperature to around 86°F (30°C). This speeds up the parasite’s life cycle, making it easier to kill.
• Medication Time: There are several effective ich treatments available at pet stores:
  • Aquarium salt: A natural and gentle option. Follow instructions carefully.
  • Ich-specific medications: Follow the dosage on the packaging.
• Cleanliness is Key: Perform frequent water changes to remove the free-swimming stages of the parasite.

Preventing Future Ich Outbreaks

Now that your betta is healthy let’s keep it that way!

• Quarantine: Always quarantine new fish for at least two weeks before adding them to a main tank.
• Water Quality: Maintain pristine water conditions through regular water changes.
• Healthy = Happy: Feed your betta a nutritious diet and keep stress levels low.

Important Notes:

• Do your research. When using medications, ensure they are specifically formulated for betta fish and adhere to the instructions meticulously for their safety and effective treatment.
• Talk to an expert: If you’re still unsure or the ich persists, don’t hesitate to consult a veterinarian or a knowledgeable fish expert.

Beyond Treating Ich: Give Your Betta the Best Care

While treating ich is essential, ensuring your betta has the best possible living conditions will help prevent future infections and keep them thriving. For in-depth information on providing optimal betta fish care, refer to a reputable betta fish care guide.

Betta fish, those little jewels of the aquarium world, are famous for their stunning colors. So, when those vibrant hues fade, it’s a cause for concern. But before you panic, let’s figure out what might be happening and how you can help.

Diagnosing the Color Fade

First things first, let’s get observant:

• The Pattern of Fade: Is the fading uniform across your betta’s body, or are there patchy areas or strange white spots? Uniform fading might suggest stress or age-related changes, while patches or spots could indicate disease.
• Fin Check: Are your betta’s fins ragged or clamped close to its body? Clamped fins might be stress, while ragged or discolored fins could point to fin rot, a bacterial infection.
• Behavior Watch: Is your betta acting lethargic or less playful than usual? Lethargy and loss of appetite are general signs of illness in fish, so observe your betta’s behavior closely.

Water Checkup Time!

Your betta’s water is key to its health. Grab that water testing kit and check for the following:

• Ammonia
• Nitrite
• Nitrate
• pH

Any imbalance? Bingo, water quality is the likely culprit.

Other Factors to Consider

• Recent Changes: Did you change the tank setup, add new tankmates, or move your betta’s home? Even seemingly minor changes can be stressful for bettas.
• Age: Some natural color fading occurs as bettas age. This process is usually gradual and won’t involve patchy fading or other concerning signs.

Possible Causes & Solutions

• Stress Management:  A stressed betta is a more vulnerable betta.
  • Tank Size Upgrade: Is the tank the right size, at least 5 gallons for a single betta? They also need plenty of hiding spots, like live plants or betta hammocks.
  • Peaceful Vibes: Reduce loud noises and excessive activity around the tank. Bettas prefer a calm environment.
  • Bully Patrol: Are there aggressive tankmates stressing your betta out? If so, consider separating the betta or removing the aggressive fish.
• Water Quality Fix: Poor water quality wreaks havoc on bettas.
  • More Frequent Water Changes: To remove built-up waste products, aim for weekly partial water changes of 25-50%.
  • Filtration Check: Ensure your filter is working properly and the tank is not overcrowded. A good filter is necessary for maintaining water quality.
• Disease Watch: Look closely for these signs:
  • Ich: Think of tiny white salt-like spots sprinkled on your betta’s fins and body. Quarantine and treat with ich medication.
  • Fin Rot: Ragged, discolored fins signal a bacterial issue. Improve water quality and consider antibacterial treatment.
• Natural Color Shifts: Some bettas, especially “marble” types, change colors over time as part of their natural development. This might be perfectly normal and shouldn’t be accompanied by other concerning signs.

credit: betta fish forum

You might find yourself wondering “why is my betta fish scales sticking out?” Unfortunately, like many other fish, bettas are susceptible to diseases. Dropsy is a severe condition that can be fatal if not treated promptly. It isn’t a disease on its own; it’s a symptom of an underlying problem, usually a bacterial infection that compromises kidney function. When the kidneys don’t work correctly, fluid builds up inside the betta’s body, causing significant swelling and discomfort. Let’s dive into what dropsy is, how to recognize it, and what you can do to help your betta friend.

What is Dropsy? Diagnosis, Signs & Symptoms

Click here for my favorite betta fish care guide with sick fish troubleshooting

The most apparent sign of dropsy is bloating and it can be an early-stage hint that something isn’t right — not to be confused with a bit of a puffed-up belly after a meal. With dropsy, the bloating is severe and affects the entire body of the betta. The fish will appear noticeably swollen, and the scales may even stretch apart due to the pressure of the built-up fluids. Pinecone scales, another hallmark symptom of dropsy, often accompany this bloating. In a healthy betta, the scales lie flat against the body. But in a betta with dropsy, the scales will stick out at odd angles, giving the appearance of a pinecone. If you look at the image below, you can see the scales lifting away from the body.

credit: upscale betta

Signs of Dropsy

• Lethargy: Your once active betta may become very sluggish and lose interest in swimming and exploring.
• Loss of Appetite: Even their favorite foods won’t entice a betta suffering from dropsy.
• Pale Color: Bettas may lose some of their vibrant color as the illness progresses.
• Observe From Above: Look down on your betta. If its body appears rounded and swollen, and the scales stick out like pinecones, dropsy is a strong possibility.
• Compare to Healthy Betta: If you’re unsure, compare your betta’s appearance to pictures of healthy bettas online.
• Consider Other Symptoms: The presence of lethargy, loss of appetite, and pale color alongside bloating strengthens the case for dropsy.

It may also lose interest in swimming or exploring its environment. Similarly, a betta that usually devours its food with gusto may suddenly stop eating altogether. Finally, dropsy can cause bettas to lose their vibrant colors and appear pale or washed out.

Early detection is crucial for successful treatment. If you suspect dropsy, don’t wait for all symptoms to appear. Isolate your betta and begin treatment as soon as possible. Here’s what to do…

Treatment & How to Cure Dropsy in Betta Fish

Click here for my favorite betta fish care book with a full disease troubleshooting guide & how to cure your betta…

Treating dropsy is challenging, and unfortunately, success isn’t guaranteed. But, early intervention offers the best chance at recovery. Here’s what you can do:

• Isolate Your Betta: Move your betta to a quarantine tank to prevent any potential spread of infection and create a stress-free environment.
• Improve Water Conditions: Pristine water is essential. Perform a water change and test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Maintain a stable temperature between 78-80°F (25-27°C).
• Epsom Salt Baths: Epsom salt (not table salt!) can help reduce swelling. Consult your veterinarian or an experienced aquarist for proper dosage and instructions.
• Antibiotics: Your vet may prescribe antibiotics to combat the underlying infection. Use only as directed.

• Euthanasia: In advanced cases where treatment is unlikely to succeed, humane euthanasia may be the kindest option to prevent further suffering.

Prevention Is Key

The best way to deal with dropsy is to prevent it. Here’s how:

• Maintain Excellent Water Quality: Regular water changes and testing are vital.
• Nutritious Diet: Offer high-quality betta food. Overfeeding leads to digestive issues and can harm water quality.
• Reduce Stress: Provide your betta with enough space, hiding places, and appropriate tank mates.

What Causes Dropsy in Betta Fish

Dropsy is often connected to these underlying problems:

• Bacterial Infection: A gram-negative bacterial infection is a frequent culprit.
• Kidney Failure: If the betta’s kidneys are compromised, they can’t filter out fluids correctly.
• Poor water quality: Ammonia spikes, fluctuating temperatures, and an unclean tank greatly stress your betta and weaken their immune system.

Click here if your betta has stopped eating altogether or if the betta is floating near the top as it might be swim bladder. We also have a full list of diseases here.

Keeping a betta fish’s environment pristine is key to ensuring they thrive. Don’t worry; tank cleaning doesn’t have to be a chore! With this simple guide, we’ll show you how to clean your betta tank so you can have your Betta’s home sparkling quickly.

Step-by-Step Betta Tank Cleaning

1. Prepare the Temporary Home: Fill the temporary container with dechlorinated water that matches the temperature of your Betta’s tank. Gently net and transfer your fish to their temporary home.
2. Remove a Portion of Water: Scoop 25-50% of the existing tank water and place it in the bucket. This ‘old’ water will be added back later.
3. Unplug Equipment: Turn off and unplug your filter and heater for safety.
4. Remove Decorations: Take out any plants or décor. Rinse them in some of the old tank water or fresh dechlorinated water, then set them aside.
5. Vacuum the Gravel: Using the gravel vacuum, thoroughly clean the substrate. Work in sections to ensure you remove all debris and waste.
6.  Clean the Glass: Scrape off any algae and use a soft cloth or sponge dipped in some of the old tank water to wipe down the tank’s interior.
7.  Reassemble and Refill: Place the cleaned decorations back in the tank. Slowly add dechlorinated water, ensuring its temperature matches the tank’s original temperature.
8. Gently Return Your Betta: Acclimate it by adding some new water to their temporary container over a few minutes. Then, carefully net them and release them back into their freshened home.
9. Reconnect Equipment: Plug the heater and filter back in.

credit reddit.com

Why is a Clean Tank Important?

Click here for the secrets to simple, happy betta fish care…

• Prevents Disease: Fish waste and uneaten food break down, causing harmful spikes in ammonia and nitrite. A clean tank keeps these toxins in check, safeguarding your Betta’s health.
• Promotes Well-Being: A happy Betta is a healthy Betta! Clean water encourages vibrant coloration, playful behavior, and a strong immune system.
• Reduces Algae: Regular maintenance helps control algae growth, keeping your tank looking its best.

Essential Supplies

Click here for my favorite betta tank cleaning kit

• Temporary Container: A clean bowl or plastic container large enough to comfortably house your Betta during cleaning.
• Water Conditioner: This removes harmful chemicals, such as chlorine, from the water, making it safe for your fish.
• Bucket: A dedicated bucket used only for your aquarium.
• Gravel Vacuum: A handy tool that siphons waste and debris from the tank’s substrate.
• Algae Scraper: Removes stubborn algae buildup on the tank glass.
• Soft Cloth or a Sponge: This is used to wipe down the inside of the tank.
• Paper Towels: Perfect for cleaning up spills and drying.

Tank Cleaning Frequency

• Small Tanks (under 5 gallons): Clean at least once a week.
• Larger Tanks (5 gallons+): Clean every 1-2 weeks.
• Unfiltered Tanks: Clean multiple times weekly, with larger water changes to manage waste buildup.

Extra Cleaning Tips

• Never Use Soap: Soap is toxic to fish.expand_more Only use clean water or water removed from the tank during cleaning.
• Temperature Matters: Drastic temperature changes stress Bettas. Match new water to the old as closely as possible.
• Quarantine New Items: Rinse new decorations or plants in dechlorinated water before adding them to your tank.
• Water Conditioner is Essential: This is non-negotiable for the health of your fish.
• Ideal pH: Bettas prefer neutral (7.0) or slightly acidic. Dechlorinated tap water is usually in this range. Avoid chemically altering the pH, but always check it with test strips before acclimating your Betta.

Let Your Betta Shine

A clean tank makes for a happy and healthy Betta fish. Follow these steps, and your aquatic friend will enjoy the best possible flourishing environment!

A common misconception exists regarding the reproductive process of betta fish. While some fish species are indeed viviparous (livebearers), bettas are oviparous (egg-layers). This distinction is crucial, as females develop eggs that are subsequently released and fertilized externally rather than carrying embryos internally until birth. In other words, a betta fish is never ‘pregnant’, but it might be full of eggs ready to lay.

Here’s the scoop on betta breeding:

• Betta Fish Eggs: Female bettas develop eggs, and their bellies may appear plump. This doesn’t mean they’re pregnant, just ready to spawn (release eggs) if a male is present. Click here to learn more about betta fish eggs.

Egg spot shown here – credit: reddit user Sea-Explanation4816

• The Spawning Dance: If a male betta is in the tank, he’ll build a bubble nest and court the female. If she’s interested, she’ll release eggs, and the male will fertilize them and place them in the bubble nest.
• No Womb: Unlike livebearers (like guppies), bettas don’t carry fertilized eggs inside them. The eggs develop in the bubble nest until they hatch.

So, what if your betta looks plump and there’s no male around?

• Not All Puff is Pregnancy: Bettas can bloat due to overfeeding or constipation. Observe their behavior and droppings to rule these out. We have a guide on betta diseases and ailments which can help diagnose the issue.
• Egg Absorption: If there’s no male, the female will eventually reabsorb the eggs.

Want to learn more about betta breeding?

If you’re interested in breeding bettas, there’s a whole world to explore! Research proper tank setup, breeding techniques, and raising baby bettas (fry). I suggest getting a guidebook if your betta is laying eggs with a male around, because soon enough you might need some additional information.

Have you noticed your beautiful betta fish struggling to swim normally? Are you wondering why your betta is swimming sideways? Perhaps they’re floating helplessly at the surface, sinking to the bottom of the tank, or swimming in odd spirals. These could be signs of Swim Bladder Disease (SBD). 

In this post, we’ll explore this condition, how to identify it, and, most importantly, how to help treat your betta for a full recovery.

What is Swim Bladder Disease?

Swim Bladder Disease isn’t a single disease. It’s a symptom of an underlying problem affecting your betta’s swim bladder. This gas-filled organ is like a little internal balloon that helps fish control their buoyancy. When something disrupts it, your betta loses the ability to swim properly. Betta fish, goldfish, and other fancy varieties are especially prone to SBD.

Symptoms: How to Spot Trouble

Keep a close eye out for these signs:

• Buoyancy Issues: Your betta may float uncontrollably to the top, sink to the bottom of the tank, or have trouble staying upright and end up laying on its side.
• Odd Swimming: Betta fish swimming sideways, in circles, erratic swimming, upside down, or struggling to swim in a straight line.
• Lethargy: Bettas with SBD often become less active and show little interest in food.
• Bloated Belly: A swollen abdomen is a common sign of constipation, a frequent cause of SBD.

What Causes Swim Bladder Disease?

• Constipation is King: The most common culprit is a digestive issue. Bettas get constipated from overeating, low-quality food, or a lack of fiber. The blockage puts pressure on the swim bladder.
• Temperature Troubles: Sudden changes in water temperature can shock your betta’s system, affecting the swim bladder.
• Injury: Physical damage to the swim bladder from an accident in the tank can lead to SBD.
• Sometimes, it’s Genetic: Some bettas may unfortunately have a predisposition to swim bladder problems.

How To Treat Swim Bladder in Betta

• Step 1: Find the Cause: Is it bloating, odd swimming along with clamped fins, or a sudden issue after a tank cleaning?
• Treating Constipation:
  • Fasting: Skip feeding for 3-4 days to allow your betta’s digestive system to clear.
  • High-Fiber Foods: After fasting, offer tiny portions of cooked, peeled peas or daphnia (live or frozen).
• Optimizing Water: Ensure your tank temperature is a steady 78-80°F and water quality is pristine (test for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates).
• When to See a Vet: If symptoms persist or worsen, or you see signs of infection, consult an aquatic veterinarian.

Prevention is Key

• Clean Water is Everything: Regular partial water changes are the best way to prevent many fish illnesses, including SBD.
• Quality Diet: Feed high-quality betta foods, offer frozen or live treats like brine shrimp, and avoid overfeeding.

Remember, Swim Bladder Disease is often treatable with some know-how and care. Check out our full care guide here.

The beauty of owning a betta comes with ensuring their well-being. Recognizing the signs of disease and understanding how to address them is paramount in maintaining a healthy environment for your aquatic companion.

Recognizing Sick Betta Fish Behavior & How To Help a Sick Betta Fish

Click Here For My Favorite Betta Fish Care Guide Book

Behavioral changes in betta fish are often the first indicators of health issues. Vigilant observation is vital to early detection and treatment. Here is some betta fish behavior before death to look out for:

Common Signs of a Dying Betta Fish

• Bloat: Can be caused by dropsy (see more below), overfeeding, constipation, a diet lacking in variety, or infections.
• Lethargy: A healthy betta is curious and active. If your fish rests at the bottom of the tank for extended periods or shows little interest in swimming, this is a cause for concern.
• Loss of Appetite: Bettas normally have healthy appetites. Refusal of food or spitting it out can indicate illness.
• Faded Color: Betta fish are known for their vibrant colors; fading is often a sign of deteriorating health. We have an article on bettas losing color here.
• Difficulty Breathing: Rapid or labored breathing at the surface could mean trouble getting oxygen and is a serious sign.
• Clamped Fins: Betta fins normally flow gracefully; keeping them tightly pressed to the body is a sign of stress or illness.
• Difficulty Swimming: Bettas floating on one side or sinking to the bottom of the tank.

Actions To Take for a Dying Betta Fish

• Test Water Quality: Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate build-up are the most common and dangerous issues in tank fish. Test immediately and address them with water changes if necessary.
• Check Temperature: Bettas need 76-82°F. A drastic change or consistently low temperature causes severe stress. Adjust with a heater if needed.
• Look for Disease Signs: Lethargy is often caused by illness. Look for additional symptoms like:
  • Bloating
  • White spots or patches
  • Fin damage or discoloration
  • Difficulty breathing at the surface

Addressing Urgent Concerns

• Ammonia/Nitrite Poisoning: Perform water change (use water conditioner)
  • Add ammonia neutralizer if levels remain high
  • Continue daily water changes until the problem is resolved
• Temperature Issues: If too cold, use a heater
  • If it is too hot, float bags of ice temporarily and find the cause (broken heater, sunlight, etc.)
• Suspected Disease: Consult a betta disease guide online for specific symptoms and treatments.
  • Consider using a quarantine tank for treatment to avoid medicating the main tank unnecessarily.

Other Possible Causes and Solutions

• Appetite Loss: Try frozen or live food (daphnia, brine shrimp) for stimulation
  • Fast for 24-48 hours if bloating is suspected
  • If prolonged, consider internal parasites or other illnesses
• Color Changes: Look for other signs to pinpoint stress, disease, or natural aging.
  • Maintain excellent water quality for long-term improvement.
• Behavioral Changes (Lethargy, Hiding, etc): Watch for tank bullies and adjust if necessary.
  • Ensure enough hiding places with plants or decorations.
  • Improve overall tank size and conditions.

Guide to Betta Fish Diseases and Ailments

Here’s a table that breaks down common betta illnesses. We include a few links to articles that go deeper into the topic.

Columnaris

Also known as “cotton mouth,” Columnaris is a bacterial infection that presents as white or grayish spots and patches on the body and around the mouth and gills. If not addressed promptly, it can rapidly deteriorate the health of your fish.

• Tips:
  • Quarantine the affected fish immediately to prevent the spread of bacteria.
  • Treat the water with antibacterial medicine designed explicitly for Columnaris. Furan-2 and Kanamycin are effective options.
  • Maintain high water quality through regular changes and removing uneaten food and debris.

Dropsy

Dropsy is not a disease but a symptom of underlying issues, often kidney failure. It manifests as severe bloating and raised scales, giving the body a pinecone-like appearance (fish scales sticking out). Read more on Dropsy here.

• Tips:
  • While difficult to treat, early detection improves chances. Begin with isolating the affected betta.
  • Offering a warm bath with Epsom salt can help reduce fluid retention.
  • Consultation with a veterinarian for possible antibiotic treatments is recommended, though recovery chances remain slim.

Ich/Ick

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, commonly known as Ich or Ick, is a parasitic infection recognizable by white, grain-like dots covering the betta fish’s body and fins. It’s highly contagious and stressful for the fish, if you suspect the parasite in your betta read on…

• Tips:
  • Increase the tank’s temperature gradually to 86°F over 24 hours to speed up the parasite’s life cycle.
  • Add aquarium salt at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water to help the fish produce more slime coating, offering protection against the parasite.
  • Use over-the-counter Ich treatment, following the instructions carefully. Treatment should continue for at least a week to ensure all parasites, including those in the larval stage, are eradicated.

Fin & Tail Rot

Fin rot, a common affliction in betta fish, is characterized by fraying, discoloration, and receding edges on the fins. It’s often caused by poor water quality or a bacterial infection. Read more on fin rot here.

• Tips:
  • Regularly clean the tank and change the water to improve conditions.
  • Treat the tank with antibacterial medications, such as Maracyn or tetracycline-based products, to combat bacterial causes.
  • For fungal causes, antifungal treatments like Pimafix can be effective.

Fin rot
Credit: Petco

Velvet

This parasitic disease, caused by the dinoflagellate parasite, presents as a gold or rust-colored dusting on the betta’s body. Affected fish may scratch against objects due to irritation. Click here to learn more on diagnosing and treating velvet.

• Tips:
  • Quarantine the infected fish to prevent spreading to tank mates.
  • Treat the tank with copper-based medications or malachite green, following dosage instructions precisely.
  • Reduce lighting in the tank, as the parasite thrives in well-lit conditions.

Popeye

Popeye is an infection that causes one or both eyes to bulge outward. It can result from bacterial infections or physical injuries.

• Tips:
  • Improve water quality to reduce the chance of infection.
  • In cases of bacterial popeye, antibiotics can be effective.
  • For injury-induced popeye, ensure the tank is safe and free of sharp decorations that could harm the fish.

Swim Bladder Disease

Swim bladder disease affects the fish’s ability to control buoyancy, resulting in floating or sinking. Overfeeding, constipation, or water quality issues might be the cause. Read all about swim bladder here.

• Tips:
  • Ensure the water is at an appropriate temperature and quality to support digestion and reduce stress.
  • Avoid overfeeding and provide a diet with variety to prevent future occurrences.
  • Read about betta fish care and use their guidebook for treatment

Tumor

Tumors can appear as abnormal growths on the body or inside the betta. They may be benign or malignant and can vary in treatability.

• Tips:
  • Little can be done at home for tumors; maintaining a stress-free environment is critical.
  • Regularly monitor the tumor for changes and consult a veterinarian specialized in fish if significant changes occur.

Septicemia

Septicemia is a systemic bacterial infection that causes red streaks or spots on the body, lethargy, and loss of appetite. It is often fatal if not treated promptly.

• Tips:
  • Immediate antibiotic treatment is necessary. Consult a vet for the best course of action.
  • Improve tank conditions to prevent future infections. Regular water changes and monitoring for stressors are essential.

Constipation

A common issue due to overfeeding or a lack of dietary fiber, constipation is evident if your betta has a swollen belly and difficulty defecating.

• Tips:
  • Fasting the fish for a few days can help clear its system.
  • Feeding a small, cooked, peeled pea can aid digestion and relieve constipation.

Lethargy

If your betta is less active than usual, it could be due to cold water, poor water quality, or stress.

• Tips:
  • Ensure the water temperature is stable and within the ideal range for bettas (76-81°F).
  • Test the water regularly and keep the tank clean to prevent stress from poor water conditions.

No Appetite

A betta might lose its appetite for various reasons, including stress, water temperature changes, or illness.

• Tips:
  • Investigate and correct any environmental stressors or water quality issues.
  • Try offering different types of food to stimulate appetite, ensuring they are appropriate for bettas.

Tail Biting

Stress or boredom can lead bettas to bite their tails, causing injury and potentially leading to fin rot.

• Tips:
  • To prevent boredom, provide ample enrichment in the tank, such as plants and hiding places.
  • Regularly change the layout of the tank to offer new stimuli.

Prevention Strategies

The cornerstone of betta fish care is prevention. Many common ailments can be avoided with the correct practices:

• Water Quality: Regularly test and maintain the parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate levels, pH, and temperature) within the ideal range for betta fish.
• Nutrition: Feed your betta a varied diet, avoiding overfeeding. Mixing high-quality pellets, frozen, and live foods can provide balanced nutrition.
• Environmental Enrichment: Keep your betta stimulated with a well-decorated tank that includes hiding spots and plants. A bored betta is a stressed betta, more susceptible to illness.
• Regular Monitoring: Regularly observe your betta for signs of distress or disease. Early detection is critical to effective treatment.

Caring for a betta fish is a rewarding endeavor that comes with its set of challenges. Understanding the signs of common diseases and how to address them is crucial for any betta owner. You can enjoy your betta’s beauty and companionship for years by staying vigilant and providing a clean, enriching environment.

As a betta owner, there’s nothing more worrying than seeing your once-vibrant fish suddenly lose interest in food. It can be frustrating and even a little scary when you don’t know the cause. This guide will walk you through the most common reasons bettas stop eating and give you simple steps to get them back on track.

Betta Fish Not Eating – Troubleshooting Guide

Bettas are sensitive creatures. When dealing with water quality issues, illness, or environmental stress, it’s better to make gradual adjustments rather than significant, sudden changes. For example, if the water temperature is too low, raise it slowly by 1-2 degrees Fahrenheit daily rather than all at once. This helps minimize further stress for your fish.

1. Check the Basics:

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• Water Quality:

  • Test your tank water with a reliable aquarium test kit. Look for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels.
  • Bettas are sensitive to fluctuations and especially to the presence of ammonia or nitrite which are toxic.
  • If any levels are off, perform a partial water change (25-30%) and consider using a water conditioner to remove chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals from tap water.
  • Remember: Regular small water changes are crucial for maintaining optimal conditions.

• Temperature:

  • Use an accurate aquarium thermometer to ensure the water temperature is stable between 78-80°F (25-26°C).
  • Rapid changes or a temperature that’s too low can suppress a betta’s appetite. A heater is recommended for most setups.

2. Food Matters:

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Sometimes, bettas can be picky eaters. If they’re rejecting the food you usually provide, here are some things to try:

• Live Food: Small amounts of live food, such as brine shrimp or daphnia, can awaken a betta’s hunting instincts and stimulate its appetite.
• Garlic Enticement: Soak your betta’s usual food in a bit of garlic juice (from fresh, crushed garlic). The scent can encourage them to eat.
• Variety is Key: Switch between different high-quality betta foods to see if a new formula is more appealing.

• Quality:
  • Offer high-quality betta-specific foods; avoid generic fish flakes. Check expiration dates before feeding.
  • Old or stale food loses nutritional value and becomes less appealing.
• Type:
  • A varied diet is more stimulating. Rotate between pellets, flakes, and occasional frozen or freeze-dried treats like bloodworms or brine shrimp.
  • Experiment to see what your betta prefers.
• Soaking:
  • Freeze-dried foods and dry pellets should be soaked for a few minutes in tank water before feeding. This softens them and reduces the risk of bloating.
• Size:
  • Bettas have tiny mouths! Crush larger food items into bite-sized pieces.

3. It Might Be Sick:

Before trying any solutions, take a few minutes to simply observe your betta. Note their overall behavior, swimming patterns, and any unusual physical changes. Are their fins clamped close to their body? Are they unusually inactive or hiding consistently? Is there any bloating, discoloration, or strange growths? These observations will guide you towards the most likely reason behind their loss of appetite.

• Symptoms:

  • Lethargy (unusual inactivity)
  • Clamped fins (fins held close to the body)
  • Visible spots, fuzzy growths, or discoloration
  • Bloating or unusual body shape
  • Loss of appetite is often a symptom of underlying illnesses in bettas.

• Research:

  • Observe your betta closely. Use the symptoms to research common betta diseases (e.g., fin rot, ich, swim bladder disease)
  • Consider consulting a fish veterinarian or an experienced aquarist if you suspect illness.

4. Environmental Factors:

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• Stress:
  • New tank setups, recent changes, overstimulation from tank mates, or harsh lighting can cause bettas to feel stressed and lose their appetite.
  • Provide a calm environment with places to hide, such as plants or decorations. Reduce strong water flow.
• Light:
  • Aim for about 8 hours of gentle, indirect light. Bettas need a regulated day/night cycle, and too much light can be stressful.

Additional Tips:

• Fasting: If your betta appears otherwise healthy, a 1-2 day fast can help reset the appetite.
• Small Portions: Offer only what your betta can consume in 2-3 minutes, twice a day. Overfeeding contributes to poor water quality and can make your fish less interested in food.
• Patience: New environments or fussy eaters might need time. Continue offering small amounts of appropriate food consistently.

Credit: Jessie Lynn Billington

Betta rubra, also known as the Toba Betta, is a stunning wild betta species native to Lake Toba in Indonesia. Their compact size, subtle yet vibrant coloration, and engaging behaviors make them a fascinating choice for experienced aquarists seeking something unique.

Understanding the Needs of Betta Rubra

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• Habitat Replication: Betta rubra comes from slow-moving blackwater environments. Providing soft, acidic water is critical. Consider the following:
  • pH: 5.0-6.5
  • Hardness: Very soft (GH 0-5, KH 0-3)
  • Temperature: 77-82°F (25-28°C)
• Tank Setup: Start with a minimum of 5 gallons, but larger is better for this active fish. Densely plant your tank with live or high-quality silk plants. Include driftwood, Indian almond leaves, and subdued lighting to mimic their natural habitat. Opt for a gentle filtration system like a sponge filter.
• Peaceful Nature: Betta rubra is relatively peaceful compared to some betta species, opening up possibilities for tank setups beyond a single fish.

Feeding Your Betta Rubra

Wild Betta rubra are predominantly insectivores. Provide a varied diet for optimal health:

• Live Foods: Favorites include daphnia, bloodworms, and mosquito larvae.
• Frozen Foods: Substitute for live food when necessary.
• Pellets: Choose high-quality betta pellets formulated with minimal fillers as an occasional supplement.

Temperament and Tank Mates

• Males: They are best kept singly unless you have a large, very densely planted tank. Males can exhibit territoriality toward each other.
• Females: Can sometimes cohabitate in a spacious tank with ample hiding spots. Close supervision is a must, even with females.
• Community Tanks: Betta Rubra might suit a carefully designed community setup. Potential tank mates include small, peaceful species that thrive in similar water conditions, such as certain rasboras or tetras. Avoid large or boisterous tankmates.

Breeding Betta Rubra

Breeding Betta rubra requires dedication and experience. Here’s an overview:

• Separate Breeding Tank: Set up a dedicated breeding tank with soft, acidic water and plenty of cover.
• Conditioning the Pair: Feed the male and female high-quality live foods for several weeks before breeding.
• Courtship and Spawning: Betta rubra are bubble nesters. Observe their elaborate courtship dances and bubble nest building.
• Fry Care: Fry are tiny and require specialized foods (infusoria, microworms).