Betta Fish Sickness, Diseases, Illness, Problems Troubleshooting & Behavior Before Death

Published March 21, 2024 | By Matt

Sick Betta Fish Behavior

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Recognizing the signs of disease, including changes in appetite, lethargy, fading colors, and fin clamping, is crucial for early intervention if your betta fish is sick. Not only do you want to step in immediately and make some changes, but understanding the subtle cues that may signal impending death, such as difficult breathing, erratic swimming, and prolonged inactivity, can be good indicators of the steps you need to take to save their life.

Betta fish behavior before death

Signs your betta fish might be dying. If you suspect your betta is very sick, click here to read more on behavior before death.

Bloat: Can be caused by dropsy (see more below), overfeeding, constipation, a diet lacking in variety, or infections.
Lethargy: A healthy betta is curious and active. If your fish rests at the bottom of the tank for extended periods or shows little interest in swimming, this is a cause for concern.
Loss of Appetite: Bettas normally have healthy appetites. Refusal of food or spitting it out can indicate illness.
Faded Color: Betta fish are known for their vibrant colors; fading is often a sign of deteriorating health. We have an article on bettas losing color here.
Difficulty Breathing: Rapid or labored breathing at the surface could mean trouble getting oxygen and is a serious sign.
Clamped Fins: Betta fins normally flow gracefully; keeping them tightly pressed to the body is a sign of stress or illness.
Difficulty Swimming: Bettas floating on one side or sinking to the bottom of the tank.

Guide to Betta Fish Diseases and Ailments

Here’s a table that breaks down common betta illnesses, symptoms, and signs that something is wrong.

Disease or Condition	Indicative Signs	Probable Causes	Sick Betta Fish Care
Columnaris	Fluffy, white patches on body or gills	Bacterial invasion in poor-quality water	Quarantine, administer antibacterial treatment, enhance tank cleanliness
Dropsy	Swollen body, scales sticking out	Infections leading to organ failure	Isolation, Epsom salt for swelling, seek specific antibiotics
Hole in Head	Depressions or holes near the head region	Nutritional deficiencies, low-quality water	Nutritional supplementation, water quality improvement
Ich/Ick	Tiny white specks covering fins and body	Infestation by Ichthyophthirius multifiliis parasites	Increase water temperature, salt treatment, specialized medications
Fin & Tail Rot	Eroding, fraying fins and tail	Fungal, parasitic, or bacterial infections, deteriorating water conditions	Clean water imperative, fungal or bacterial specific treatments
Popeye	Noticeable eye protrusion	Injury or bacterial infection causing fluid buildup	Improve water quality, consider antibiotics for bacterial causes
Swim Bladder Disease	Trouble maintaining buoyancy, floating or sinking	Improper diet, abrupt water changes	Offer dietary adjustments, ensure optimal water conditions
Betta Fish Tumor	Abnormal growths or swellings	Genetic predispositions, environmental factors	Maintain quality of life, consult vet for potential treatments
Velvet	Rusty or gold dust appearance on the body	Oodinium pillularis parasite	Reduce tank light, copper or malachite green treatment
Septicemia	Red lines or spots on body, lethargy	Bacterial infection in the bloodstream	Immediate antibiotic treatment, improve tank sanitation
Constipation	Difficulty in excretion, bloated abdomen	Overfeeding, lack of dietary fiber	Fasting followed by feeding fibrous foods like peas
Lethargy	Reduced activity, indifference to surroundings	Suboptimal water temperature, stress, toxins in water	Regulate water temperature, ensure cleanliness, minimize stress
No Appetite	Disinterest in food	Temperature fluctuations, advanced age, stress, illness	Investigate and rectify underlying issues, temperature control
Tail Biting	Self-inflicted injuries to the tail	Environmental stress, lack of stimulation	Enrich habitat with plants/toys, monitor for stress signs

Columnaris

Also known as “cotton mouth,” Columnaris is a bacterial infection that presents as white or grayish spots and patches on the body and around the mouth and gills. If not addressed promptly, it can rapidly deteriorate the health of your fish.

Tips:
- Quarantine the affected fish immediately to prevent the spread of bacteria.
- Treat the water with antibacterial medicine designed explicitly for Columnaris. Furan-2 and Kanamycin are effective options.
- Maintain high water quality through regular changes and removing uneaten food and debris.

Dropsy

Dropsy is not a disease but a symptom of underlying issues, often kidney failure. It manifests as severe bloating and raised scales, giving the body a pinecone-like appearance (fish scales sticking out). Read more on Dropsy here.

Tips:
- While difficult to treat, early detection improves chances. Begin with isolating the affected betta.
- Offering a warm bath with Epsom salt can help reduce fluid retention.
- Consultation with a veterinarian for possible antibiotic treatments is recommended, though recovery chances remain slim.

Ich/Ick

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, commonly known as Ich or Ick, is a parasitic infection recognizable by white, grain-like dots covering the betta fish’s body and fins. It’s highly contagious and stressful for the fish, if you suspect the parasite in your betta read on…

Tips:
- Increase the tank’s temperature gradually to 86°F over 24 hours to speed up the parasite’s life cycle.
- Add aquarium salt at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water to help the fish produce more slime coating, offering protection against the parasite.
- Use over-the-counter Ich treatment, following the instructions carefully. Treatment should continue for at least a week to ensure all parasites, including those in the larval stage, are eradicated.

Fin & Tail Rot

Fin rot, a common affliction in betta fish, is characterized by fraying, discoloration, and receding edges on the fins. It’s often caused by poor water quality or a bacterial infection. Read more on fin rot here.

Tips:
- Regularly clean the tank and change the water to improve conditions.
- Treat the tank with antibacterial medications, such as Maracyn or tetracycline-based products, to combat bacterial causes.
- For fungal causes, antifungal treatments like Pimafix can be effective.

Fin rot
Credit: Petco

Velvet

This parasitic disease, caused by the dinoflagellate parasite, presents as a gold or rust-colored dusting on the betta’s body. Affected fish may scratch against objects due to irritation. Click here to learn more on diagnosing and treating velvet.

Tips:
- Quarantine the infected fish to prevent spreading to tank mates.
- Treat the tank with copper-based medications or malachite green, following dosage instructions precisely.
- Reduce lighting in the tank, as the parasite thrives in well-lit conditions.

Popeye

Popeye is an infection that causes one or both eyes to bulge outward. It can result from bacterial infections or physical injuries.

Tips:
- Improve water quality to reduce the chance of infection.
- In cases of bacterial popeye, antibiotics can be effective.
- For injury-induced popeye, ensure the tank is safe and free of sharp decorations that could harm the fish.

Swim Bladder Disease

Swim bladder disease affects the fish’s ability to control buoyancy, resulting in floating or sinking. Overfeeding, constipation, or water quality issues might be the cause. Read all about swim bladder here.

Tips:
- Ensure the water is at an appropriate temperature and quality to support digestion and reduce stress.
- Avoid overfeeding and provide a diet with variety to prevent future occurrences.
- Read about betta fish care and use their guidebook for treatment

Tumor

Tumors can appear as abnormal growths on the body or inside the betta. They may be benign or malignant and can vary in treatability.

Tips:
- Little can be done at home for tumors; maintaining a stress-free environment is critical.
- Regularly monitor the tumor for changes and consult a veterinarian specialized in fish if significant changes occur.

Septicemia

Septicemia is a systemic bacterial infection that causes red streaks or spots on the body, lethargy, and loss of appetite. It is often fatal if not treated promptly.

Tips:
- Immediate antibiotic treatment is necessary. Consult a vet for the best course of action.
- Improve tank conditions to prevent future infections. Regular water changes and monitoring for stressors are essential.

Constipation

A common issue due to overfeeding or a lack of dietary fiber, constipation is evident if your betta has a swollen belly and difficulty defecating.

Tips:
- Fasting the fish for a few days can help clear its system.
- Feeding a small, cooked, peeled pea can aid digestion and relieve constipation.

Lethargy

If your betta is less active than usual, it could be due to cold water, poor water quality, or stress.

Tips:
- Ensure the water temperature is stable and within the ideal range for bettas (76-81°F).
- Test the water regularly and keep the tank clean to prevent stress from poor water conditions.

No Appetite

A betta might lose its appetite for various reasons, including stress, water temperature changes, or illness.

Tips:
- Investigate and correct any environmental stressors or water quality issues.
- Try offering different types of food to stimulate appetite, ensuring they are appropriate for bettas.

Tail Biting

Stress or boredom can lead bettas to bite their tails, causing injury and potentially leading to fin rot.

Tips:
- To prevent boredom, provide ample enrichment in the tank, such as plants and hiding places.
- Regularly change the layout of the tank to offer new stimuli.

Actions To Take for a Dying Betta Fish

Test Water Quality: Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate build-up are the most common and dangerous issues in tank fish. Test immediately and address them with water changes if necessary.
Check Temperature: Bettas need 76-82°F. A drastic change or consistently low temperature causes severe stress. Adjust with a heater if needed.
Look for Disease Signs: Lethargy is often caused by illness. Look for additional symptoms like:
- Bloating
- White spots or patches
- Fin damage or discoloration
- Difficulty breathing at the surface

Addressing Urgent Problems

Ammonia/Nitrite Poisoning: Perform water change (use water conditioner)
- Add ammonia neutralizer if levels remain high
- Continue daily water changes until the problem is resolved
Temperature Issues: If too cold, use a heater
- If it is too hot, float bags of ice temporarily and find the cause (broken heater, sunlight, etc.)
Suspected Disease: Consult a betta disease guide online for specific symptoms and treatments.
- Consider using a quarantine tank for treatment to avoid medicating the main tank unnecessarily.

Prevention Strategies

The cornerstone of betta fish care is prevention. Many common ailments can be avoided with the correct practices:

Water Quality: Regularly test and maintain the parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate levels, pH, and temperature) within the ideal range for betta fish.
Nutrition: Feed your betta a varied diet, avoiding overfeeding. Mixing high-quality pellets, frozen, and live foods can provide balanced nutrition.
Environmental Enrichment: Keep your betta stimulated with a well-decorated tank that includes hiding spots and plants. A bored betta is a stressed betta, more susceptible to illness.
Regular Monitoring: Regularly observe your betta for signs of distress or disease. Early detection is critical to effective treatment.

Caring for a betta fish is a rewarding endeavor that comes with its set of challenges. Understanding the signs of common diseases and how to address them is crucial for any betta owner. You can enjoy your betta’s beauty and companionship for years by staying vigilant and providing a clean, enriching environment. If you believe your betta is actively unhealthy and dying, click here to learn more.